On Sunday the group made the trek to the Southwest corner of Iowa to visit my distant relatives, the Liljedahls and their farm operation. After three hours in the van we had arrived and were greeted with a warm Swedish welcome and discussion about any and everything farming and hog related. Mr. Liljedahl was mild mannered and did not take any extreme stances, and in line with many of the farmers we had talked to, he was not a fan of the trade war and wished the government did not have to supplement the income lost as commodity prices fall, but he was happy to accept it. However, he believed that this would most definitely have an impact on the upcoming election, but the scale is not quite clear. My friend in Shenandoah believed the opposite, stating that there would be minimal impact if any in the 2020 election.

At the Liljedahl farm, the group was treated to a tour of his hog operation. We toured the gestation room where some were off-put by the hogs confined. However, I did not have a serious problem with this as the sows have a history of killing their own and this reduces the likelihood of them laying on them or eating their piglets. We then went to the farrowing room where the hogs were again confined, but this prevents them from fighting and killing each other. Finally, we went to the finishing room where the pigs were in confined areas, but had room to move around and interact with other pigs. They are then sold every week, about 16 at a time.

It was very neat to see the ins-and-outs of a hog operation and to be able to see what other groups have described. Mr. Liljedahl’s mindset of showing people how the operation works and letting them come up with their own opinion is the right idea, and prevents people from just listing to what people want you to believe about them.

I bet you didn’t know there were mountains in Iowa. It’s okay, me either. And I guess mountains probably aren’t the best description. They’re more like really big hills. On the Northeast side of the State there are huge rock formations covered in forests. There not quite as expansive as Paris Mountain back in Greenville (there aren’t houses on these mountains), but they are still big enough to grab one’s attention and even take one’s breath away. I’ve been told that a long time ago when glaciers were moving everything around the one that gave Iowa it’s striking flat(ish) landscape completely missed the Northeast allowing the land the to maintain its forests and rocky formations.

I’ve found my time here in the Northeast full of beauty, familiarity, and cows. Even thought these were no “Happy Cows” they seem glad to be able to roam around in the many pastures.

We visited a few farmers who are members of a farming co-operative called Organic Valley. Organic Valley works together with farmers to help them to sell their product to a market solely for organic standard farms. Going around to these different farms I realized two important things.

The first being the love for farming that everyone shared.

We visited mostly dairy farmers and one farmer who had livestock for meat production. Everyone of them loved there animals, at least from what I could tell. They all wanted what was best for the animal and did a lot of hard work to make sure that the animals were provided for. A common practice that farmers did was “rotational grazing,” or at least some version of the practice. What rotational grazing consist of is giving the animal (in this case cows) new grass to eat by fencing off sections of the pasture and moving them from one ares to another. Farmers did this because it gave the cows new grass to eat over time. They also did to improve there soil health. Cows are actually pretty picky and like some grasses over others. With is grass that they don’t eat they just stop all over it putting the plant back into the ground. This puts organic material back into the soil making it richer. The cows also act as a lawn mover eating the tops of the grass, which in turn breaks off roots into soil, which is a food supply for the microbes that live in the soil allowing them to the thrive. It’s not only the cows that benefit but the Earth as well.

The second important characteristic I learned from the farmers is the sense of community between them. There were a couple of things that contributed to the sense of community. The first being the most obvious, they were all organic farmers. Having the same occupation and the similar practices helps create a strong connection between everyone we met. They were able to talk about their own operations and they differed or how they were similar. Another factor that contributed to the sense of community was being from the same area. Residents of the same location can share obstacles they all may face due to where they are physically located. This connection best revealed itself when we visited an Amish community and there farm. Even though the Amish were not apart of the organic co-op they were from the same area as the other farmers and they knew a lot of the same people. They could talk about neighboring farms and the owners and how they helped or contributed to their operation.

This community was super important to me, because it is a continuous theme that reveals itself everywhere. It also important because it shows intersections between organic foods and local foods. Organic food can be local but that does not mean they always co-exist and one thing that consumers should be more aware of is that the terms are not interchangeable. Don’t expect local food to be organic or vice versa.

Robert Paarleberg writes in his book, Food Politics, “Journalist, Michael Pollan, a leading voice in the local food movement, observes that when people shop at a farmers’ market they become less like consumers and more like neighbors.” Food is a strong indicator of whether or not a community is thriving or not. Food can be a sociological tool to help communities around the nation become stronger and find solutions for weaker communities to build themselves up.

“If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.”

― J.R.R. Tolkien

May 28, 2019

After almost wrapping up our second week in Iowa, today’s foray into farming started off in an unexpected way.  We are currently staying at an organic dairy farm in Lansing, Iowa.  Since Luke and I woke up early, Mr. Kruse, one of our hosts, showed Luke and I where he milks his cows, where they graze in paddocks, where he feeds the cows grain, and where they keep the cows during the winter. The overview of the operation was interesting, but my favorite part of the morning was feeding milk to baby cows. We filled the bottles with milk and as soon as the calves saw us with the bottles they came running toward us and stuck their mouth on the bottle. We were told to make sure to remember which calf you gave milk to because if they are fed twice it will give them diarrhea.

Once we finished feeding the calves, we had a quick breakfast and made our way to an Amish Farmstead in Waukon, Iowa. We saw the Paint Creek Bulk Food Store and Bakery, and their dairy cows.  The food store and bakery sold various products such as chocolate, gum, pies, cakes, doughnuts, and bread. We also saw where they set up their cows for milking and where their cows graze. While they were grazing, we were able to see some of the kids and their dog chase one of the cows who got separated from the herd. It was cool to see kids knowing how to react and what to do in this situation–a skill I never learned as a kid.

Our next venture of the day was to Jeremy Peake’s organic grass-fed diary operation. On our drive into the farm, we noticed a sign on front stating that they are members of the Practical Farmers of Iowa. While on their farm we headed out to the pasture and were able to see how they herd their cattle and interact with them.

At the end of the day we headed back to Lansing to visit the Welsh Family Organic Farm. It is an organic beef, hog, and chicken operation. This was a great stop since two days ago we saw a very differently run hog operation. On Sunday, we were able to see a hog operation where they were kept in much more confined areas in crates whereas today’s operation the hogs were kept in different outside sections based on weight with much more space to move around and be free. We were also able to experience what a hen operation looked like from the inside, something we have yet to see on this trip. Overall, it was nice to have a comparison of the animal practices of different operations.

So here’s my perspective: If it is not truly free range, grass fed, or anything else that prioritizes the health of animals sold for consumption, we don’t need it. Animals deserve to live a life that benefits them and satisfies their natural needs for as long as possible.

As I have traveled Iowa I have become increasingly aware that my views of animal agriculture don’t match the market needs for meat production. In my perfect world all animal farmers would have the ability to let their animals be free range, but in the US food market, demand just won’t make room for farmers to have that ability. Instead farmers have to house and feed thousands of animals at a time. To make it easier for the farmer and to increase profitability and productivity, they keep animals in large housing that has cages for the animals to stay. They make enough room for the animal to lay down and sometimes if the farmer is really fancy they’ll have spaces large for the animal to turn around. They keep food and water and one place for animal so refills are quick and easy.

One unique privilege of the United States is that food prices are ridiculously cheap compared to other countries. One reason that is able to happen is because of the production. The drive to meet the demand for meat inhibits meat producers to offer the best care and attention that best benefits the animal. For some commercial meat production farmers can have up to 3,000 pigs, and even that can be considered smaller compared to others.

When I think of proposals to satisfy the want I have for better practices for meat productions I immediately think of smaller livestock farms. One theme I seems o be coming back to over and over is small farms. I have been most invested in farms that use minimal space to make the most change. But even I know that in animal agriculture small farming is just not possible. Meat has become a staple in the American diet, and meat is super accessible to most people in the country. It would be unfair to just rewrite the food economy and eliminate the mass production of meat.

If we can’t change the food market then what can we do? Value small farms! Small farms have the ability to give the best life to animals going to market. The animals are more likely to be free range, have a diet best suited to what they would find in nature, and have a better relationship with the farmer who owns them. So, go to local market, local butcher, or even straight to the local small town farm, and get the fresh meat. Invest in these farmers so they can know they have a good relationship with the community they work for. Ask to see the animals and how they are being raised. This is let’s the consumer have a better understanding of what they are eating and how it is moving from farm to table. Ask about the health of the animals and how their health could effect yours. Small communities run best when they work together. Don’t just be neighbor to the person next door, be a neighbor to the whole town. Build trust and accountability. That is the best way to ensure freshest and healthiest local food.

Our search for one of the group member’s long lost relatives landed us in Essex Iowa, which is in the southwest part of the state. This connection landed us on the farm of Dennis Liljedahl, who is a member of the Pork Producers of Iowa. Along with being a Director on the Iowa Pork Producer’s Board, and having multiple hog barns, he also farms around 2800 acres of land. As a group, we were able to have a conversation with him before going to see his hog operation. During our conversation, there were a couple of points that I thought were very interesting and other points that echoed ideas mentioned in past presentations. One of the most interesting things that were said was that they were not happy that Trump was bailing out farmers again because of the low commodity prices resulting from the trade war. Mr. Liljedahl strikes me as someone who believes in open and free trade around the world with no tariffs. Another thing that was very interesting is that because of the landscape being so hilly, 98% of their farm is no-till, which is a stark difference from Radcliffe and Central Iowa which primarily till their land. The reason for this on Liljedahl’s farm is because it prevents run-off from the rolling hills which his farmland is located on. They also use terraces as another practice to prevent run-off.
After we finished our conversation, we headed over to the Liljedahl’s hog operation. Once we got inside the barns, I was surprised how the hogs were kept in very confined pens. The Liljedahl’s began to explain the reason behind this practice, stating that it leads to fewer deaths among hogs because they are a hierarchy among the group. This agrees with a study done that showed when given the option to be grass feed or feed in the creates most choose to be in the creation because they were guaranteed their food whereas in the pasture they would have to fight for the food.

Day 11 began with an early wake up in Radcliffe before we took off for Coon Rapids. In Coon Rapids, we began with a stewardship day at the Whiterock Conservatory. During this session, we helped to remove invasive plants that the grazing goats did not eat. The two plants we dug up were Dame’s Rocket and thistles. These plants had been brought over from Europe, and they have taken over ecosystems in Iowa. The goats eat some of these plants, but we had to try to remove them for good. One of the most interesting things was that a donkey was the guard animal of the herd, and if you got to close to the goats the donkey would push you away from the goats. After a lot of hard work in the field, we went back to the cottage we were staying at for a much-needed break and lunch.

After lunch, we went to Liz Garst house to talk about everything farming. We got some background on her and Whiterock Conservancy as a whole. The biggest takeaway from the talk with Liz was natural resource protection and conservation. The scariest thing she said was that half the topsoil has been eroded since the land was the first farmed. To prevent any more Liz was a huge fan of cover crops and pushed people around her to do the same. Liz underscored many points made by the Iowa Environmental Council and Andy and Eric at the Grinnell Heritage Farm.

Today, May 25th, the adventure of FARM truly begins. This is just the first stretch of travels through Iowa. Today we headed to Whiterock Conservancy almost two hours from our home-base in Radcliffe. At Whiterock Conservancy we worked eliminating invasive plants on one of the Conservancy’s oak savanna plots. We pulled weeds, dug up thistle (a vicious plant), and picked up sticks. These are materials the goats on the conservancy will not eat. The goats’ job at the conservancy is to help keep weeds down and they are protected by a guardian donkey. I was skeptical if the goats needed the guard donkey more than me after meeting my match in an eight-year old boy. I was preyed upon by this child who thought it was his job to slap me with thistle, throw worms and rocks at my head. After hours of doing this work, I really wished we had just mowed it down with a lawnmower. Getting rid of weeds without chemicals is labor intensive and time consuming. I can understand more now about why farmers resort to using pesticides even if they aren’t the best practice. 

Later, we visited with Liz Garst. A main focus of conversation with Liz revolved around soil health. The Whiterock Conservancy is located in the Southern Drift Plain and Prairie Pothole region. The Prairie Pothole Region has terrible natural drainage and therefore need tiling to make the land farmable. Even though tiling is a controversial topic, regulation declares that “by definition tile drainage is good.” Good for farming, but not soil health. Iowa has some of the richest soils. However, since the time Iowa began farming, half of the topsoil and organic matter has been lost. This has implications not only for soil richness but also water quality. Without the filter that Iowa’s soil provides, it no o longer has capacity to reduce pollutants. The Iowa Environmental Council portrayed the image of farmers using anhydrous ammonia as the main contributor to nitrate pollution. However, Liz Garst didn’t think that added nitrogen was the main problem for water quality and the hypoxic zone. She noted that Iowa’s soil are natrually rich in nitrogen; only by improving soil quality are you going to really reduce the nitrogen problem. Another contrast I found in talking with Liz Garst was that she stated that farmers really do not care about water. I found this surprising because almost every farmer we have visited up to this point has defended their farm practices by stating that they wouldn’t pollute the water that they themselves drink. 

We ended the day by building a fire and roasting marshmallows and making smores. It was a relaxing way to end a tiring but great day. 

Today I was reminded of why I am a vegetarian. We visited a hog confinement. A very kind family owned it, they also happen to be Rob’s long lost family. We first went to their family farm and discussed what it is like being on the Pork Producer’s Board with Dennis Liljedahl. There were a lot of questions asked about his farming practices in regard to his crops. Once we got to the farm where he keeps his hogs (away from his own house), we toured the buildings. The first building we went in, and the last I went in, we saw piglets and sows enclosed in gestation crates. Apparently, gestation crates are supposed to limit piglet mortality because it prevents the mother pig from rolling over on a piglet. I think a better solution would be not having so many damn pigs in such a small area. Comparatively speaking, this was one of the best kept hog confinements in Iowa. There was a rotting piglet and a starving mother in one of the stalls that looked as if it hadn’t been attended to in weeks. I think that speaks a lot about what humans are willing to sacrifice for “cheap food prices”. For the life of me, I cannot understand why or how anyone can be okay with the treatment of animals around here. I guess I am just not desensitized yet, I don’t think I ever could be. It literally made me physically ill. The farmer told us to watch out because “they can be mean”. I think that is an incorrect explanation. The pigs are animals, WILD animals. They are not domesticated. And on top of that they were all terrified from the second we walked in. There was a point when the farmer slightly raised his hand to point at the fan and all of the pigs screamed and huddles in the corner furthest away from the farmer. It’s crazy to me that at three weeks old, the piglets already understand they should fear the humans.

I would understand if there was even one single health benefit of eating pork. I have never heard anyone say, “eat your bacon, it’s good for you” and there’s a reason for that. Next time you get the opportunity to eat bacon, TURN IT DOWN.

I have no judgments to the family who raises the pigs, aside from the fact that it is so far away from their own house and so close to others. I understand that given the market and the culture that exists in America today, someone has to do it. A change in the way that people farm animals would require a change in our diet and the way that we demand food. These people are merely an actor in the system.

After we checked into our hotel and ate some dinner, we played card games. Of everyone, Michael talked the most smack but is probably the worst. We played a version of UNO called “Spicy UNO” which is regular UNO plus a variety of random rules added. I think I was the worst at the quiet rule that occurred anytime anyone out down a number seven.

May 26, 2019

After a week’s worth of early wake up calls, we were able to sleep in before we left the Whiterock Conservancy and headed to Essex, Iowa. On the way to Essex we made a brief pit stop to see Albert the Bull-the world’s largest bull. The giant concrete icon is a tribute to the area’s cattle raising history. The towering roadside attraction was worth the stop and a fun look at another a side of Iowa’s culture.

After the detour we met with Dennis Liljedahl of Liljedahl Farms, who is a member of the Iowa Pork Producers Board of Directors. Dennis started the presentation with some background on how his farm got started and the farm’s practices. Their farm is a three-generation family farm that his father started in 1957. Farming back then was a lot different than today’s type of farming. Dennis discussed a program known as crop share where the landowner supplies the land, the farmer supplies the machinery as well as the labor, and they split the profit 50/50. Today the typical farmer farms their own land or rents land to someone else to farm; both programs that Liljedahl Farms now operates.

Dennis also discussed his opinion on water quality issues regarding confined animal feeding operations (CAFOs). His ideas were very different from what we have heard so far on this trip. He stressed that the odor associated with the animal waste CAFOs generate is more of a problem people should be concerned with as opposed to the water itself being contaminated from the runoff. It was interesting to hear his perspective on the runoff issue, which was different than the Des Moines Water Works take. Their main focus is on making sure the water quality is clean for their customers. I did research last year on CAFOs and found that even though federal laws regulate CAFOs, no laws specifically address odors. This is one aspect I have enjoyed about this trip-being able to hear different perspectives and opinions on various topics.

After our discussion, he brought us to see his swine operations to see how pigs are handled on their farm. The pigs were all placed in separate crates with little space for them to move around. This separation method is used to prevent piglet deaths from sows sitting on their piglets. This is also enforced so that other pigs wouldn’t pick on pigs that were considered to be “lower on the pecking order” and kill them for being considered weak. To finish off the trip, we saw one of their many grain bins and how they get corn into them from a GSI (a drying) machine. It was interesting to see an Iowa swine operation since nearly one-third of the nation’s hogs are raised in Iowa.

I want to start with the end of the day.

I am truly infatuated with the sky. At home in South Carolina I admire how the bright white light of the sun illuminates the dark sky and fills it with oranges and pinks. I also wonder how the green leaves of the trees seem to pair effortlessly with the light blue afternoon sky. Here in Coon Rapids, Iowa I got to see the ultimate beauty of the evening sky. Never have I seen such tremendously bright colors light up the sky. There were fierce oranges paired with vibrant pinks all being topped off with a soft purple hue only to introduce the dark clouded blue sky.

There will never really be words to describe the beauty I experienced today. I was truly overwhelmed and it was great to just let go of apprehensions and let them fade just as quickly as the colors in the sky did today.

It’s more than a little sad to think that so many people have overpowered all the grace and beauty of the Iowa landscape with huge fields of agriculture. Very seldom has there been balance. Either there is not enough environmental conservation or there is not enough farming. Where is balance? One place to find it is at the White Rock Conservancy. While there are fields of green and natural landscape there is also fields designated for crops. At the conservancy they perform the conservation reserve practices such as the restoration of Prairies like mentioned in a previous blog. There is so much to admire here the vast amounts of fields for grazing cows, the RV camp sights for travelers, the work to restore ecosystems like Oak Savanna (forests that leave room for smaller plants like diverse groups of grasses.). It probably also helps that all of this sits on 6000 acres of land.

It is unfair to judge the entirety of state off a single location, but the bigger picture is, Iowa has a unique geological history and the lasting affects of that history is the beauty of the land. At the end of day, the land is being exploited by the greed of profit and productivity. From my perspective it seems outrageously unfair to not only violently take land from native peoples and to turn around and destroy it by means of monopolizing the planting of two main crops, chemical technology, by planting nearly every inch of the state. Big agriculture is destroying the land and the people. We need more time for sunsets. We need more appreciation for the beauty. We need more respect for the practice of agriculture.

I hear all the time farming is a family tradition and the art of farming is dying. Treat the practice, the lifestyle like the fine art that it is, and make people appreciate the beauty of farming.